Showing posts with label Roma. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Roma. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

24 hour party people

How to describe the end of april and the beginning of may? A simple 'party time' wouldn't do justice to all the subtle differences, the traditions and the paradoxes. An overview of several days of Romanian celebrations, festivities, holidays and utter bacchanals. Part 1: April

April 20: Palm Sunday & Floriile
As I previously wrote, the Sunday before (Orthodox) Easter, marks the start of the Holy Week. Everyone in the village seemed to be present during the service, to collect a blessed branch and to celebrate Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem. Especially with the elections coming up it might be important to be seen, although not necessarily during the whole mass. For me as an atheist it is interesting to observe how people are experiencing Church. It's a bit like more things here: you'll pick the most important parts and leave the rest.
The rest of the day was filled with flowers. People with a flower in their name celebrated their second birthday. This meant that my host, Florin, was having a barbecue. A good opportunity to get acquainted with the family, the friends, the mayor... and the homemade drinks.




April 23: St. George Day
The integration course continued. The mayor, whom I've met a few days earlier, is called George. Because of this, and maybe because of the fact that the elections are coming up, he invited all the Georges in the village for a party with wine, beer, ţuica and mici, in the city hall. My name isn't George, but I still had the chance to meet several of them. And to discover the pitfalls of the local (strong) wine.




April 24: Queensday reception organised by the Dutch consulate in Timisoara
Is there a bigger contrast possible than the one between a party on the countryside and a diplomatic reception in the local museum of arts? Maybe there is. With Dutch colleague Theo I experienced a small culture shock, when we entered the entrance hall, slightly underdressed. The vast majority of the people present seemed to belong to the Romanian upper class. The biggest shock however came at the buffet: suddenly no one was able to form a proper queue anymore.

April 25: Holy Friday
The preparations for Easter intensified. In Arad we received orange Easter bunnies. Orange is the colour of the PD-L (Partidul Democrat Liberal), the party of a lot of people around me. Another sign that politics and celebrations sometimes cannot be separated. Fortunately there was no sign of this when I attended the mass in neighbouring village Ghioroc. Since this was the commemoration of the crucifixion the priest was dressed in black. Almost the complete service consisted of singing prayers, with mentor Bogdan Calin as one of the singers.







April 26: Resurrection Night
I never experienced a proper countdown towards Easter before. Until this Saturday. In the morning we went with several boys to home for disabled people in Lipova, to give them Easter presents. After that we spent the day painting eggs and my colleagues Egija and Ruth received rabbits as a gift from Raul, our coordinator. At 11 pm we were ready to go to Church. In Romania this night is at least as big as Christmas eve, a night when everyone goes to church, no matter how religious one is. And yes, the church was crowded. During the service the priest changed his black dress for a white one – to symbolize the resurrection of Christ. Just as the night before people lighted candles and circled the church three times. Most of the people left the service after this to go to their traditional Easter meal: lamb, cheese, onion, ham, wine & ţuica and of course the freshly painted eggs.




April 27: first day of Easter
More eggs for breakfast. Hristos a inviat. Adevarat a inviat. (Christ has risen. Indeed He has risen) For this traditional question and answering ritual you need two eggs and two people. With your egg you have to crush the other one. And don't make the mistake to answer Adevarat a intrat (Indeed he entered)...
Despite the tuica and wine we did manage to get up in time for another mass. It was lighter, more cheerful this time. A special place was reserved for the children. The end of the service was more earthly, when the priest underlined the importance of the recently bought minivan: it enables the children of Covasint to see more than just their village. The rest of the day was dedicated –once more- to a traditional lunch and the recovering of it. And no, the Easter bunny didn’t forget us.

April 28: second day of Easter
Did I mention the eggs? This day we ended with a plastic bag, completely filled with coloured eggs and cozonac. It’s a tradition here to spend Easter monday on the cemetery, to commemorate dead relatives. People brought food and drinks and these were blessed by the priest. After that the commemoration/celebration started: a lot of families invited us to join them and we just had to accept the food. And the drinks. This was actually the first occasion were we noticed some differences between Roma and Romanians and between different Roma groups. As I wrote before, the Roma from Covasint like to show their wealth – and this doesn’t stop at the cemetery. There were also the poor Roma – probably from other villages- who were attracted by the hospitality of the families and the free cake and eggs.
With a filled stomach we visited the Easter Ball in the local cultural house. We actually contributed to the decoration of the party through our photo exhibition. An interesting sample of the village population gathered to move on traditional Romanian music. This is where our traditional dance course turned out to be quite useful. Some of them really did their best to dress up, others just showed up in a training suit. Oh, and did I mention the alcohol?








April 30: (Queensday) / EVS volunteers Villa party.
Forget Queensday. After one day of relative rest we moved to a different world: the one of international volunteers in Arad. The garden of Babel I found in Lunca Muresului moved to a villa in Arad. Fifteen volunteers from every corner of Europe are staying there during there project. It became the epicentre of parties, conflicts and other social gatherings for all the millennium center volunteers. On this day two volunteers (Fleur from Amsterdam and Sara from Spain) celebrated their birthday. Did I mention… Never mind. This was the only party in the row without certain traditions or etiquette to observed.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Where the streets have no name...

Life in a village has its own rhythm. And for every season there is another speed. Spring is advancing very fast. Three weeks ago it was still the end of winter; the start of this week felt as if summer was coming. Fresh lilacs are decorating my room. It makes it hard to grasp that it has been only one week since my arrival here.
One week with a lot of new experiences and small observations. Especially the latter ones I have to write down, before I’m taking things for granted. The 20 km long tram ride between Arad and the nearby town of Ghioroc for example, with the sign: forbidden to eat sunflower seeds. The fact that everyone greets each other on the streets. Some older people even get offended when it slips your mind. The omnipresent animals: chicken, ducks, geese, dogs, cows, sheep and horses. The local accent, in which n becomes nj. The fact that there are no street names, just numbers. And above all, the hospitality one may find even in places like the kindergarten, where they served us some traditional food and drinks.

Secondly, there are the small annoyances. Because they’re working here on a new water system, we don’t have running water during large parts of the day. Something typical for every small community is the social control. For us foreigners, it has limited itself so far to an occasional awkward look. The kindergarten teacher, who lives in another town, explained us on the other hand, how she experiences the judgment of the people.

Then there are the bizarre palaces in the village. Covăsânţ has a strong Roma community. Most of them are working abroad. With the money they earn over there, they build huge kitschy palaces in the village. One is bigger than the other. In most of them only one room is used. There seems to be a big difference with Suplacu. Here there is no obvious separation between Roma and Romanians. At least, children of both communities are attending the same school.


Last but not least we have the Big Invisible: politics. In June there will be the local elections. Behind the scenes the campaigns already have started. Everything turns out to be political, even in a village like this. And especially in a country like Romania, where a visible clash exists between old and new generations. Between people who prefer a status quo and people who want change. (To put it bluntly.) And if you want to get things done, you’ll have to be member of a political party. In this way, even the local youth center here is part of that game.


On the other hand: there is still at least one event bigger than the elections, and that is Orthodox Easter. The countdown for the 27th of April is running. Coming Sunday marks the start of the Holy Week, with every day a special sermon. The (holiday) week after Eastern is filled with all kind activities (tournaments) for the village youth. The summer weather might be useful then.




Monday, March 31, 2008

Planet Petrom

Currently I'm having my on-arrival training in Natural Park Lunca Muresanului, close to Arad. A lot of intercultural learning, games and drinking. Campfire included. The training will last until tuesday, after which we still have two days for a workshop in photography and video. I might write a seperate message on this world in itself.

Before leaving to this beautiful forest/river-area, Kaie and I had the chance to visit the third possible destination: a village called Suplacu de Barcau, 70 km. from Oradea. It took us almost seven hours to reach it (including a three hour stop in border city Oradea). The spring sun did its best to make us forget the lack of sleep due to the pubquiz the night before. After leaving the bus in Suplacu, our noses took over. It wasn't possible to avoid the smell of petrol. Everywhere in and around the village we stumbled upon oil installations and chimneys, runned by Romanian oil company Petrom. The volunteers ( a French girl, two Spanish guys) we met there told us that one can get used to it. As a compensation for the omnipresent oil money came available for a new youth center.

A second peculiarity of the village is the number of ethnic communities. Romanians, Hungarians and Slovaks are living next to each other. The Roma part of town however looks like a completely different world. We had the chance to see the volunteers in action during an English lesson in the Roma school. It's hard to stay clear from the cliche images when describing it. Fourteen year old girls taking their babies into class, a fight between two boys. The volunteers however did manage to make small steps in breaking the stereotypes.

All in all was this a very impressive day. I got to a see a new side of Romania and it made me wonder where I'm going to stay.

(see slideshow for pictures)